Rock Climbing Shoulder - Crag Warm up!
The shoulder is a super complex system! When we as Physical Therapists are working to diagnose a shoulder injury these are the joints we consider:
The acromioclavicular joint- The joint at the top of the shoulder that connects your clavicle to the top of your shoulder blade.
The sternoclavicular joint- The joint that connects the clavicle to your sternum.
The cervical spine- Cervical disc or facet irritation can refer pain to the shoulder or shoulder blade.
The thoracic spine and ribs- Decreased mobility can cause wear and tear on other joints.
The scapulothoracic joint- The shoulder blade on the thoracic spine, how it moves, and how strong the muscles around it are.
The glenohumeral joint- The ball in the socket joint that we usually think of as the shoulder itself.
This Post will focus on the rotator cuff muscles of the glenohumeral joint itself.
What are the rotator cuff muscles?
Supraspinatus- This muscle is located at the top of the shoulder and it’s action is to lift your arm out to the side.
Infraspinatus- A triangle shaped muscle that is located on the back side of the shoulder and turns the shoulder outwards (external rotation).
Teres minor- A smaller muscle slightly below the infraspinatus that also externally rotates the shoulder.
Subscapularis- Lies along the inside of the scapula and attaches to the front of your shoulder. It is the largest of the rotator cuff muscles and acts to turn the shoulder inwards (internal rotation).
Why are the rotator cuff muscles important to train as a climber?
The rotator cuff’s main function is to stabilize the arm when doing dynamic activities like climbing!
Research has shown that weight training (cross training/ strengthening) was one of the only factors to prevent injury during bouldering when compared to stretching, warming up, and taping fingers.
Josphsen, G., Shinneman, S., Tamayo-Sarver, J., Josphsen, Boulware,D., Hunt, M. and Pham, H., 2007. Injuries in bouldering: a prospective study. Wilderness & environmental medicine, 18(4), pp. 271-280. JULL, G.A., 2000.
Here are some ways to warm-up your rotator cuff.
Infraspinatus: External rotation
- Hold a band in your hands with your thumbs pointing upwards.
- Gently engage your shoulder blades back and down and keep them there throughout the exercise to ensure the focus is on the shoulder and rotator cuff not the scapular muscles.
-Keep your elbows close to your sides, pull the band apart hold for 5 seconds and relax. Repeat 10-15 times.
Supraspinatus, Teres Minor: Abduction and external rotation
- Start by holding the band in front of you with the opposite arm.
- Once again engage your shoulder blade back and down and keep it there the whole duration to ensure the rotator cuff is what is doing the work and not the scapular muscles.
- Rotate your working hand up and out while keeping your elbow at the same spot hold for 5 seconds and return to the starting position. Repeat 10-15 reps.
Subscapularis: Internal rotation
- Stand with a band anchored behind you.
- pull your hand down and then back up to the starting position.
- Keep your elbow at the same position throughout the exercise.